Friday, February 21, 2014

Jewelry periods

Remember “The roaring '20s or crazy '60s” article? I created back then a virtual collection of jewels from 1900 to the '90s. Now I have a new challenge for you.

If you had the chance to choose an item from each jewelry period, what would that be?

Here are my picks:

  • Georgian Jewelry

Georgian Pinchbeck Enamel Bracelet
  • Victorian Jewelry

Victorian Era Renaissance Revival Antique Garnet Bracelet
  • Art Nouveau Jewelry

MURRLE BENNETT & Co. Gold Pendant
  •  Edwardian Jewelry

Emerald and Diamond Edwardian Engagement Ring / 1900 - 1915
  • Art Deco Jewelry


Daisy Fellowes Tutti Frutti necklace from Cartier
  •  Retro Jewelry

Retro Design 10.70ct Citrine Yellow and Rose Gold Pendant
  • Mid-Century Jewelry

Grand Verdura: cuff bracelet made of black jade and the gold maltese cross, set with an amethyst, peridots, diamonds and pearls.

  •  Contemporary Jewelry

Alia Amethyst Earrings by Victoria Tryon

Which are your preferences? If you want to share them with us, you can do it by leaving a comment below.

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Thursday, November 7, 2013

Meet the designer – Alis Lalu Contemporary Jewelry

I knew that I’d like to make an interview with Alis since I’ve met her at the beginning of this summer, but the minute she showed me her newest creation a few weeks ago we both understood that the right moment for a lovely discussion about her work was getting closer.

Alis Lalu is a talented Romanian jewelry designer and her most recent collection is called “Adagio in G Minor”, having a violin as its centerpiece. She designed it for Autor 10, the largest contemporary jewelry fair in Romania which is going to take place at mid-November in Bucharest.


Ladies and gentlemen, please meet Alis Lalu!



GP: How many jewelry items does “Adagio in G Minor” collection have?
AL: I've designed the first violin 3 years ago and the idea of it has never left me ever since. It stayed with me until this new collection came to life. It now has 4 items and I’ll be working at 3 other more. But I’m sure it’s an open story, which will not end here.

The collection, as it looks at this moment, is consisted of a necklace, a pair of earrings – an oversized violin for one ear and a fiddle bow for the other – and 2 brooches.

It was not my purpose to replicate a violin as it is in reality, but rather to get inspired by its feminine and sensual shape. The juxtaposition of contrasts is the main idea of the necklace: a delicate and glossy finished violin put on a slightly industrial, more massive tubular chain. It conveys the fact that music brings together different generations and people regardless of age, sex, occupation or ethnicity.

Adagio in G minor Collection - Silver 925 and Ebony - Necklace

GP: By the way, how did you get the idea for this new collection of yours?
AL: Many things have inspired me. I've designed my first violin for a dear friend of mine 3 years ago, who was doing music. At that time, he asked me to make him a brooch. I was looking to come up with something representative for him, strongly connected with his passion for music. This is how I got the idea of a violin.
Moreover, from that very moment, I began to think of a collection of violins bearing in mind that Adagio in G minor is my favorite musical composition.

I first listened to it in a play at Bucharest National Theater and it haunted me ever since. It’s one of the compositions that make me cry. You could easily become slightly depressed by listening to it and, at the same time, it loads you with positive energy. There are ups and downs, just like life teaches us so many times.

I knew back then that this idea will come to life at the right moment. I didn't get to work immediately because I needed time to absorb the concept, to let it come to surface whenever it was right.
There is also another novelty within this collection – there is no ring in it, which is a big step forward for me. If you take a look at my previous collections, you’ll see that they’re mainly consisted of rings. It was not my purpose to do so. I simply turned to rings everything I saw in my mind as I visualized my creations that way.

Adagio in G minor Collection - Silver 925 and Ebony - Brooch

GP: Speaking about rings, you once said in an interview that your favorite jewelry item remains the ring, simply because “hands help us connect with others and build relationships”. Very nicely said! Which is your favorite ring?
AL: It is so difficult to choose only one. The feeling I get when finishing a piece of jewelry is similar to the mother-child relationship. You might think I overreact, but I don’t. It’s so hard for me to separate from my creations because I love them so much. On the other hand, I can’t keep them only for myself, I wanna show them to the world, to let them go and bring joy in someone else's life.

But if I must choose one, this would be a white gold ring with emerald, from the Duchess Brocart collection. The gemstone is mounted in yellow gold to emphasize the green color.

Duchess Brocart Collection - 14k White & Yellow Gold and Emerald - Ring

Why did I choose this ring instead of other? Just because I love the green color of emerald. I got this from my mother who’s in love with this hue too. I remember she had emerald jewelry when I was little and I was anxious to grow up and wear them. I did and now I’m making my own jewelry.
Duchess Brocart collection is inspired by the sumptuous jewels worn by Duchesses and also by their elegance and  the shape of their brocade dresses. What I did in this collection was to render the metal structure of brocade.

Duchess Collection - Silver 925 and Garnet - Necklace

GP: Tell me more, how do you get inspired?
AL: It's an ongoing process. What happens every day inspires me, maybe not even consciously. Let’s take “Adagio in G Minor” collection for example. There are many things that inspired me – maybe the disappointment that I missed “George Enescu” festival, the Romanians’ pride of having it, its success, a play, my favorite musical composition. All these put together are o source of inspiration. At the opposite, there are moments when you’re looking for the inspiration and either you fail to find it or it doesn't find you. In Pablo Picasso’s words I believe the most in these moments: “Inspiration exists, but it must find you working.” I then sit at my desk and let myself guided by the material I’m working with. I get inspired by it or, better said, by its limitations.

Adagio in G minor Collection - Silver 925 and Ebony - Earrings

GP: What does jewelry mean to you, as a designer and a woman?
AL: It means more than an accessory, that’s for sure. It brought change into my life. I began designing jewelry after 5 or 6 years spent in a corporation. It helped me find my way in life, at least at this point. Maybe tomorrow I’ll play drums, who knows. I’m joking, of course. J

Waves Collection - Silver rings

GP: You didn't tell me what jewelry means to you as a woman and you’re not getting away with it. Is there any difference between Alis wearing jewelry and Alis without any?
AL: Of course there is! I don’t wear jewelry as an accessory, but rather as a statement and an extension of my personality. I do not care if a ring, at least the one I’m wearing, is comfortable or in tune with my clothes. Quite the opposite. Sometimes I choose the ring first and decide after what I’ll wear that day. I’d like to think that women who appreciate my work are doing the same. It is also an extension of femininity after all. It’s true that men are also wearing jewelry but we could wear so much more.

Skyline Collection - Silver 925 and Tourmaline - Ring

GP: Tell me about your collections in just one word. OK, in a few words if it’s difficult to define them otherwise. J

Duchess Collection - Silver and Amethyst - Earrings
Duchess Collection - feminine
Skyline Collection – New York landscape 
Colors Collection – organic and playful 
Asymmetrical Collection – bold, angles
Shadows Collection – contrast
Biogenic Collection – first collection
Waves Collection – my childhood, sea waves
Adagio in G Minor – feminine, suave, music brings people together


GP: When did you realize that you want to be a jewelry designer?
AL: I've always been curious how jewelry is being made. I met David Sandu one day, who told me that I could learn how to make jewelry in only 2 weeks. I found his statement fascinating and I joined Assamblage Contemporary Jewelry School, without knowing exactly what is going to happen there. I trusted David and his work. I just knew after this course that I need to grab my tools and get to work. It was a process. I perceived it as a hobby at first, which is still valid today, only now I’m much more aware of it. 

Duchess Brocart Collection - Silver 925 and Agate - Ring

GP: What’s next?
AL: Autor 10 Contemporary Jewelry Fair in Bucharest, on 16th and 17th of November. It will be a special edition as Autor fair has reached its tenth edition, in which my colleagues and I will present statement jewelry.

This fair comes after another important event that recently took place at Galateca Gallery. I’m talking about Jewelry Design Fair, an event that I was very proud of. We celebrated the third anniversary of Assamblage School at the fair. This is the school I talked you about, which had me as a student 3 years ago and now hosts me as a professor, as I’ve been giving jewelry classes for almost one year and a half.

Biogenic Collection - Silver 925 and Coral - Ring

Thank you Alis for this lovely interview and I can’t wait to see your creations at Autor 10!

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Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Meet the designer – Contemporary Silver Jewelry by Alexandra Ungurelu

Alexandra Ungurelu is a young jewelry designer, with a great potential and so much to offer. Her dearest project “Expression Contemporary Jewelry” was born two years ago and since then she’s constantly experimenting and discovering the wonders of the jewelry universe, by bringing ideas to life and putting them into original pieces. I was delighted to get to know her at Jewelry Design Fair in Bucharest and later find out more about her creations on a beautiful yet rainy Saturday afternoon.


I asked Alexandra to answer some questions as I was convinced you would like to know her too. So, my dear reader, I am more than happy to introduce Alexandra to you:

Alexandra Ungurelu, Contemporary Jewelry Designer
How would you describe Expression - contemporary jewelry in a few words?
AU: Jewelry is an expression of self! My jewelry is an expression of myself and I believe it can also be for other jewelry lovers.

Expression Contemporary Jewelry, by Alexandra Ungurelu

Why silver jewelry?
AU: My story with silver is pretty much simple. I love silver, the way it feels, the way it looks and most of all the way you can manipulate it into almost any shape or form. I believe it is the precious metal that represents me at this time and I love how adorning it with precious stones only makes it more attractive.

120 Degrees Collection

What does inspire you?
AU: This I think is an answer that changes constantly, because sometimes you can be inspired by architecture, other times by food. Most of my ideas come from me constantly observing and absorbing everything around me. From a song on the radio to the shape of a flower, everything comes together in my mind and shapes are formed, they are given a purpose and a life of their own. I believe that different sources of inspiration give you place to evolve and create something different and unique every time.



Silver Wings Collection

If you’d have to pick just one piece of jewelry to represent your work from all your collections, which one would you choose and why?
AU: It’s really hard to choose just one, from almost twelve collections. I have done a lot and different pieces that I love; each represents a certain feeling and creates a special connection. I think at the time the one piece I care for very much is the Silver Pill, it was a challenge to make and I started this project with two guide lines in my mind: one was that it represented all the secrets that everybody and anybody who wears it carries and the second was the fact that to me it is a symbol for today’s world. We are constantly depending on something, we are all addicted to one or more “substances” and it only seems to get worse. This silver pill is sort of a reminder of what we have become.

Silver Pill Collection

How does your client look like? (A short profile of the woman that buys Expression jewelry)
AU: My clients’ profile varies as my jewelry collections do, so I guess a few connecting traits would be the boldness to wear something unique, the need to have something that completes and shows who you are and the love for creative and contemporary shapes and design. 

Silver Cube Collection

What jewel took you the longest time to create?
AU: If I remember correctly it was the “Spinning Ring”, I started working on it at the beginning of this jewelry journey and it was challenging to put together but it was worth every minute.

Silver Spinning Ring

You made some gold jewelry as well. How was the experience of working with this precious metal?
AU: For me working with gold means having a different mindset than when I’m working with silver, especially when I work with yellow gold. I believe that yellow gold can be captivating but under the right circumstances and when it is given the “right” shape. I say the “right shape” because I think it can sometimes express more as something organic than something minimal or geometric, but of course that is just my opinion following my taste in gold jewelry. It is a harder metal to work with but it is just as beautiful and I had a great time experiencing with gold in my “Golden Paper” Collection.

Golden Paper Collection

How was Alexandra before designing jewelry and how do you see yourself now?
AU: I used to search for things to make me happy, trying to find a way to express myself, a way that I could show who I was but not all the way. I used to dress mainly in grays, black, just dark colors and I didn't really feel the need to try new things. Now I wear more colors (maybe not as much as I should, but I am getting there). I exercise, I feel the need to travel and gather inspiration from all around the world, I realized that I really love to cook so that is what I do in my down time and most of all I have found a true way to express myself and that is through creating jewelry.

Morocco Stars Collection

Dear Alexandra, it is great how the passion for jewelry makes you feel alive and it stimulates your imagination and creativity. Keep up the good work and I wish you lots of inspiration!

I hope you all enjoyed this interview and I promise you this one just marks the beginning of a very interesting section on Jewelry Love Affair blog – Meet the designer. So stay tuned for other interesting interviews!

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